The luxury ingredient that more and more restaurants are using
Neither root nor tuber: although it grows underground, the black truffle is a fungus that appears in winter. However, it's not easy to find, because it hides among the roots of holm and oak trees, 10 or 20 centimeters below the surface, and only trained dogs can detect it with their sense of smell, at the exact moment it's ready to emerge. The golden rule: to be worth anything, a truffle must be harvested at its perfect ripeness. That's when the truffle hunter's work begins, which consists of digging patiently, extracting it, and cleaning it with extreme care. No machinery can replace this. Each truffle is harvested by hand, examined, and classified by size, shape, and aroma. It can weigh 5 grams or more than 100.
Although its origin and use are associated with Europe, Argentina has managed to develop extremely high-quality black truffles in the central and southern regions of the country. The season is in winter, between June and September, and during these few months the most valuable pieces are harvested: those with a regular shape, intense aroma, and full ripeness. In international markets, a kilo can fetch over $1,000. But two or three grams are enough to understand why they are called "the black diamond."
That gem, in Buenos Aires, appears with the first strong cold snaps. At El Colmo, chef Ariel Rodríguez Palacios and his team set a goal: to bring truffles to the streets without losing their aura. “It was a challenge to have them in our sandwiches, in our grocery stores. It was the ultimate way to show that we can put haute cuisine between breads,” he says. To that end, they designed a sandwich as tempting as it was sophisticated: freshly grilled pork loin, artisanal Danbo cheese, a mushroom velouté with peanut butter, and the star: freshly grated black truffle. Four grams per serving of truffles, which they store in cloches to preserve the aroma. “Truffles are an emblematic product of haute cuisine. They remain irreplaceable. When people try them, they are amazed,” says Rodríguez Palacios. At El Colmo, they work with Trufas del Nuevo Mundo, a project based in Espartillar, Buenos Aires province, that supplies restaurants, organizes excursions to truffle farms, and, according to its representatives, seeks to "democratize access to truffles."
“They arrive in Buenos Aires in less than 48 hours after they're harvested. They're perishable, but they can't be harvested green either. They must be stored between 0 and 4 degrees Celsius. The smell can't be alcoholic. Production, transportation, and use in cooking are all real challenges,” Rodríguez Palacios enthuses.
Elsewhere on the Buenos Aires map, Roux also celebrates the season in an elegant and subtle way. Martín Rebaudino's restaurant in Recoleta doesn't have a set truffle dish, but instead offers it in a variety of dishes. "We serve it with eggs, risottos, and some red meats. It's always grated freshly, on the plate," explains Rebaudino. Truffles are charged extra per gram, like precious stones.
“The grated truffle is equivalent to approximately two grams, which is quite a lot for a serving, and today it costs around 5,800 pesos,” he adds. In his case, he works with producers from Lobería, Azul, and Espartillar. “We have a customer who travels and eats abroad, who compares. There's increasing awareness of the product, and they welcome local production, also because they know we always use seasonal produce on the menu. It's a guarantee of freshness,” Rebaudino says. For him, truffles aren't just an ingredient: “They bring magic. A unique, petroleum-like aroma. A flavor that enhances dishes.”
For more than a decade, Argentine producers have been seeking ways to replicate the truffle ecosystem in the country. Alkaline soils, precise rainfall, suitable trees, and a lot of patience. Today, there are plantations in the provinces of Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Neuquén, and Mendoza.
Nicolás Tycocki, chef at Ácido, chooses them precisely for their local character: "We're increasingly finding better and more delicious truffles in Argentina. It's a luxury product that's becoming more accessible. That's why I'm including it; I'm not interested in adding it as an imported product. Having them in the country is a great motivation, and many people want to try them," he says.
Since the season is short, as soon as he receives the first seasonal truffles, he thinks about how to offer them in his kitchen. “This year, we're going to incorporate them into our burger, the patty melt, the iconic Ácido fries, and another house classic, tteok calcio e pepe, a kind of Korean gnocchi with an Italian touch.”
A unique harvest, meticulous sorting, and careful transport are some of the keys that explain this product's coveted value. Truffles are also used in butters, salts, oils, and are even preserved, but their essence is revealed when consumed. That's when, they say, the jewel truly shines.
Finally, some other restaurants that include truffles in season: Ajo Negro, Sottovoce, Don Julio, Aramburu, La Tablita, Trescha, Mad Pasta, Margot (Santa Fe), Fuego Sagrado (Pigue), Garage Comedor (Pigue), El Papagayo (Córdoba) and Ánima (Bariloche).
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