Gianfranco Ferré's treasures under the hammer

What Pénélope Blanckaert, a vintage clothing expert who has worked at Artcurial and Christie's, loves are wardrobes that tell a past story, a more or less forgotten designer. So, that's how enthusiastic she was when she discovered the wardrobe of a former friend of Gianfranco Ferré, the imposing Italian couturier who headed Dior from 1989 to 1996. "Gianfranco Ferré is a bit like the 'Jonathan Anderson' of his time, " she explains. "He had the same intellectual spirit. The press described these clothes as works of art, wearable works of art."

Also read: Jonathan Anderson's debut at Dior Homme, our verdict

Nicknamed the architect of fashion, which he actually studied at the Polytechnic of Milan, Gianfranco Ferré has almost been forgotten in fashion history, at least as seen by social media. Yet, he truly left his mark on 1990s haute couture with his grandiose volumes, meticulous embroidery, exaggerated cuffs, sculpted backs, and taste for gilding. A baroque style with precise lines that would blend perfectly into the 18th ^- century elegance of the house of Dior, where he was appointed artistic director after the departure of Marc Bohan, and who would in turn be dismissed when a young John Galliano was inducted.

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"A certain historicism emanates from his creations," confides Pénélope Blanckaert. "You can feel his love for Italian architecture but also an oriental tropism. But be careful, it's nothing like Gianni Versace. He had this intellectual, majestic, even distant sensuality. For example, he worked more on the backs than the necklines of his often long dresses. His collections are unique, ornamented, busy, and undoubtedly less easy to match. Yet, they are precisely magnificent, offset with current wardrobe basics." In total, 230 pieces selected to blend into the wardrobe of today's active and elegant woman. Remarkably modern dry wool suits, chic jersey sportswear ensembles, Japanese-style cocktail ensembles, and evening dresses with chiseled backs, whose estimates are more than affordable (some starting prices are as low as 40 euros). All available for auction on Penelope's website until July 9.

"This sale is unprecedented," confides Pénélope Blanckaert. "It's a real risk to offer this in markets that don't have a high profile. Hence the affordable prices. The idea is also to encourage the new generation to try their hand at auctions. It's a unique buying experience, with a fun aspect that you won't find anywhere else. Of course, to cover our bases, we're also offering classics like Kellys and Chanel bags. Who knows, maybe some will then be interested in Ferré." For the more curious, a selection of the pieces will be presented from July 5 to 8 at the Charles Zana gallery in Paris.