Slovenia: Four small villages not to be missed in the Vipava Valley

For several years now, Slovenia, the smallest, richest, northernmost and most Central European of the countries of the former Yugoslavia, has been growing as a tourist destination.

More and more people are learning about and have had the opportunity to visit Ljubljana , the vibrant capital, or Lake Bled , with its enchanting atmosphere. Many have discovered the beauty of the Slovenian mountains, outdoor adventures along the Soča River, and that stretch of coast between Koper and Piran .

There's another area of ​​the country experiencing a tourist revival, albeit slowly, gently, and quietly. It's the Vipava Valley , the plain crossed by the Vipava River, a tributary of the Isonzo, which it joins in Italy. Vipavska dolina , as it's called in Slovenian, begins immediately east of the border between the two countries, in the Gorizia area.

It is a region with a mild climate, nestled between two mountain ranges that flank and protect it, despite the occasional and typical gusts of bora that pass through it: these conditions have meant that it has historically been a territory exploited in particular for the cultivation of fruit trees and for the production of wine . Although it does not compete in fame with the nearby Slovenian Collio ( Brda ), the quality of its reds is particularly high.

Like much of Slovenia, the Vipava Valley is very green , and its flat nature, yet surrounded by gentle hills and more vertical reliefs, makes it a perfect setting for those who love outdoor sports , such as trekking and, above all, cycling and cycle touring.

In addition to its food and wine and outdoor activities, it stands out for its small, well-kept villages , with some little gems that are absolutely not to be missed, capable of summarizing the true essence of the valley, where life flows sweetly and serenely and the air seems a little finer.

Vipava

If the largest centre of the valley is represented by Ajdovščina (Aidussina according to the Italian translation of the name), the town that best represents its identifying characteristics is Vipava , the village that sits on the sources of the river from which it takes its name, called Vipacco in Italian.

Some have apparently called it the Slovenian Venice , but the truth is that it more closely resembles a Central European version of Umbrian Rasiglia . First of all, because of its small size: Vipava has less than 2,000 inhabitants and can be visited entirely on foot. And then, above all, because of the omnipresence of water : all around the town, in fact, are the various springs that give life to the river of the same name.

This avenue appears behind the elegant Palazzo Lanthieri , the most architecturally remarkable eighteenth-century building in the center, which stands at the edge of the main square. It resurfaces every now and then as you pass through the narrow streets that wind between the houses, in no particular order.

Glavni trg , the main square, is bustling with the tables of the trattorias and bars that line it, while a monument commemorating the fight against fascism stands in the center. Vipava was Italian territory between the two world wars, and here, during the dark years of Mussolini's dictatorship, the population joined the Slavic resistance in large numbers, despite the iron fist of forced Italianization.

Vipava is topped by a hill, on which stand the ruins of an ancient castle . Now, only a few stone walls remain to remind us of the fort, but the walk to get there is pleasant and offers sweeping views of the entire Vipava Valley, from the town center to the hills on the other side of the narrow plain.

Goče

Not far from Vipava, travelling through the countryside decorated by the rows of vines of the Valley, you discover one of the pearls of this area, the tiny Goče .

This village of just twenty permanent residents is a rural gem nestled in a natural hilly setting, yet reminiscent of certain mountain settings. The town has a rustic, authentic, and genuine beauty.

Unlike other beautiful, brightly renovated villages in the Vipava Valley, Goče has peeling walls and abandoned houses, once inhabited by peasant families who tended the large plots of land devoted to agriculture in the immediate vicinity.

Its most striking feature is its distinctive rural architecture , with its exposed stone buildings, the wide arches that form the portals leading to the farmyards in front of the houses, the large wooden doors of the barns, and the slate roofs. A stroll through the village offers a journey through time and allows you to soak up the authentic atmosphere.

Historically, Goče has been an important winemaking center : both in the village and in the immediate vicinity, there are several wineries offering tastings and sales of their products. A visit to the cellars, intended as a wine storage area, is another experience not to be missed.

Vipavski Križ

The white bell tower of the town of Vipavski Križ stands atop a gentle hill. From the village, you can enjoy a privileged view of the Vipava Valley, especially from south to north.

The village, known in historical documents as Villa Crucis , has a history that dates back to the early Middle Ages, but which owes its flourishing in particular to the sixteenth century, when the bishops of Gorizia decided to fortify the town, building a castle as part of a defensive system designed to keep away the Turkish forces advancing up the Balkans.

Once it passed into Habsburg hands in the early 19th century, it was known as Santa Croce in Italian, and equally so in German ( Heiligenkreuz) and Slovenian ( Sveti Križ ). After the First World War, the territory passed into Italian hands, and in 1923 the town was renamed Santa Croce di Aidussina, after the nearby town in the Vipava Valley that lies on the plain at the foot of the hill. When, after the Second World War, the town became part of Yugoslavia, it was again renamed with its current toponym, Vipavski Križ, literally Vipava Cross , thus removing the sacred element from the town's name.

Today, Vipavski Križ is a small, restored and meticulously maintained village , with the fascinating castle ruins overlooking the square, lending it a mysterious and magical feel. Inside, there's a bar ideal for an evening aperitif. Strolling through the village streets, you'll experience a tranquil, slow, and authentic atmosphere. Chairs and tables are placed near the entrances, private greenery adorns the narrow cobbled streets, and a few locals engage in friendly conversation: a true ode to the slow life .

For those who want to explore this beautiful corner of Slovenia further, there's a circular trail approximately 7 kilometers long that winds around Vipavski Križ. It's an ideal route for a moderate but leisurely stroll, suitable for occasional hikers and families on bicycles. The loop allows you to visit some even smaller villages in the surrounding area (Cesta, Plače, and Male Žablje), exploring the countryside dotted with vineyards and orchards, with stretches of woodland and others offering views of the white Vipavski Križ.

Pedrovo

The Branica Valley is a small side valley, considered an integral part of the Vipava Valley, bordering the Karst region. Branik is its main center, above which stands the spectacular Rihemberk Castle , a mighty keep with four splendid towers that dominates the entire plain.

While the castle, privately owned but open to visitors, is worth a stop for the views and the chance to explore its sumptuous interior, there's a little secret to discover as you continue along the road to Komen.

Once past the fortress, in fact, after two hairpin bends you turn onto a well-paved but very narrow road, which in a couple of kilometres takes you to the pleasant village of Pedrovo .

Like Goče and Vipavski Križ, time seems to have stood still in Pedrovo, but the reality is, in truth, the opposite. This small rural village, adorned by a small country church, was on the verge of complete abandonment until a few years ago, until, thanks to some investments, a group of twenty families returned to live there.

Today, Pedrovo is a beautiful corner of Slovenia immersed in nature and serenity . A small country village, hidden among the woods on a hill, where greenery fills every corner and adorns the beautiful farmhouses. A dairy offers the opportunity to taste and purchase local goat and sheep milk products, while a farm offers rooms and a spacious restaurant serving hearty home cooking, perfect for discovering the rich food and wine of the Vipava Valley. In one corner of the village, there is even a space dedicated to contemporary art , complete with a small exhibition area.