For 47 years: the story of the Argentine family that created the best alfajor in the world
In a rustic house with a white and yellow facade, located on 433 Matheu Street in the historic center of San Antonio de Areco , lies the secrets of a cult delicacy. "If you go to Areco, bring alfajores," is the saying of those who have venerated them for decades. The Gabba family, in their chocolate factory "La Olla de Cobre," has been guarding the recipe for this classic, with its spongy dough, generous dulce de leche, and a completely artisanal dark chocolate coating for 47 years.
And now one of their creations, filled with a lot of dulce de leche and covered in 70% cocoa chocolate, was chosen as “The best alfajor in the world” by the renowned gastronomic publication Taste Atlas .
Carlos Gabba and Teresa Fanelli grew up and met on the town's cobblestone streets. For years, he was in charge of distributing candy and cigarettes to various nearby towns, and she was a teacher. It was in early 1978 that the couple began making their iconic alfajores. "Since we saw that mini-tourism was developing at the time, especially on weekends, we came up with the idea of creating a local offering for travelers. It's a very Argentine product . When you go on vacation, it's always customary to take a little gift box for family or friends," says Gabba, 72.
From the beginning, it was a family business. Carlitos and Teresita, as they are affectionately known, began designing the perfect recipe in their tiny kitchen: they melted the chocolates in old copper pots , rolled out the dough with a rolling pin, then filled them with dulce de leche and even wrapped them by hand, one by one.
“We were in a mess. When we started improving, we went from hand-kneading to a mixer, and from the kitchen oven to a more industrial one,” Carlos describes. And he assures us that it took months of trial and error until he found the right raw material. “We wanted to offer something really good, but we couldn't find a quality coating to cover them with. So we decided to focus on making our own dark chocolate . When we achieved what we were looking for, we realized we could also use it for chocolates and figurines. So, little by little, the diversity we offer today began,” the chocolatier explains to LA NACION , affirming that discovering the craft was like love at first sight.
On May 1, 1978, they set up a long table with a tablecloth at the entrance to their home's garage (where the chocolate shop is currently located) and presented their artwork to the public. The date was ideal, as it was a holiday, Labor Day, and there were more people on the street than usual. Within a few hours, the alfajores were a hit and sold out. "They were very popular right away; it was incredible," she says. Interestingly, at that time, the business didn't even have a name. It was Carolina, the couple's eldest daughter, who inspired her. "At the time, she was very young, and when she saw us working with copper pots, she suggested we call it that, and it stuck. So simple, quick, and definitive," she says. To this day, the old pots are part of the shop's decor and are preserved as true treasures.
Carolina, Valentín, and Agustín grew up in the chocolate shop. They played with pots and wooden spoons, and from a young age, they designed chocolate eggs. Over time, they became passionate about the craft. “We did everything as a family; they've been here since they were born, discovering the magical world of chocolate. We have many of our children's friends who remember birthdays at home with the aroma of cocoa and alfajores,” Teresa recalls. They all continue working in the business: the eldest opened her own shop in Villa de Merlo, San Luis, and, with her husband, makes the same family recipes as La Olla de Cobre. Valentín is a lawyer, but he always joins them on weekends, holidays, and busy days, while Agustín is in charge of production at the chocolate shop.
The alfajores, which have captivated both locals and tourists and have garnered fans across the country, weigh about 50 grams. The dough is spongy (similar to a sponge cake). "It gives the alfajor a very soft, chocolate-like quality," says Carlos. In the center: generous confectioner's dulce de leche, then topped with a 70% dark chocolate coating .
According to its creator, it has characteristics of two distinctly Argentine alfajores. "The dough is more similar to Serrano, and its dulce de leche is more similar to those from the Coast. Then we cover them with our very own chocolate. That's why we say it's the result of a synthesis: a bit of the Coast, the Sierra, and the Pampas." In addition to the chocolate version, they've designed another white alfajor covered in meringue, which is similar to the Rogel cake .
The picturesque space features exposed brick walls, wooden counters (which once belonged to a century-old village store), an antique Molero scale, and a warm wood-burning fireplace. From a window, you can watch the master chocolatiers in full swing.
One day a week they dedicate themselves to preparing the chocolate they'll use to coat the alfajores (approximately 500 kilos). Then it's time to prepare the dough, cut it, and assemble it: a machine applies the tops, the dulce de leche flake, and the other top. "Like a sandwich," Carlos explains.
And finally, the chocolate coating, subsequent cooling, and packaging. "The entire production process takes us a week," he explains. Today, they produce between 12,000 and 15,000 alfajores per week .
Cocoa nibs [small pieces of natural, roasted beans] are imported from Ecuador and northern Brazil, and then made in the small factory. They produce 70% dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and white chocolate. A long counter displays a variety of chocolates , bars, slabs, and even raw chocolate. They have classics like those filled with dulce de leche; almonds; peanut butter; coconut; cereal; and even crunchy chocolate.
“At first, we added some chocolate bars, and they were very popular. So, we decided to expand our chocolate shop and expand our range. Now there are more than 26 varieties,” says Gabba. In the summer, people order more alfajores, and in the winter, chocolates. At Easter, the shop is filled with chocolate eggs and figures, and before the New Year's Eve celebrations, regulars come in search of another of their delicacies: turrón. “We make it as artisanal as we did in the beginning. It's very hand-kneaded and sugar-free. It contains honey (from local producers), egg whites, and almonds,” he explains.
Over the years, they've managed to win the hearts of children and adults alike. They have fans who have moved abroad and stop by to say hello when they're in Buenos Aires, and even some who take them as gifts for family or friends in Spain, Italy, or the United States. Ninety percent of their customers are tourists visiting Areco. Carlos is proud when he hears that his alfajores inspire sighs. "It makes us very happy; it's the recognition from the people. It's been made with a lot of love and effort. We've truly vowed not to change it, not to undermine it, even in critical times when costs are difficult to maintain." Teresa, for her part, adds: "I love the bond and relationship we've built with people. Generations have passed through the store. We share ideas, tastes, and a great family has formed. They don't just come to buy chocolate, but to have a moment of joy."
Carlos has a daily ritual of tasting his alfajores. “I eat one every day. I try them, see how they turned out, and check the quality, flavor, and texture. It gives me peace of mind,” he concludes. Over the years, his chocolate shop has become a symbol of Areca.
This article was originally published on August 26, 2021.
lanacion
