There is a Season with Molly Parr: This spring vegetable transforms: With heat, a radish softens into something almost buttery
Have you ever sauteed a radish? Ever roasted one? The application of heat to this particular spring vegetable is transformational. Its peppery bite disappears and an entirely new flavor appears in its place. Its snap softens into something almost buttery.
I think of springtime when I think of radishes; they are the first to pop in a garden, and their resemblance to Easter eggs is undeniable. I really noticed that when I served radishes, sauteed in butter, and finished with mint and tarragon, at my Passover Seder.
My house is dairy-only at Passover, so no brisket at my table. However, I did serve an eggplant parm I can best describe as silky; a dish we call Baltic nachos, which are roasted potatoes finished with dabs of sour cream, lox, dill, and lemon; a strawberry quinoa salad that had a sweet and lemony dressing; roasted asparagus; and potato and broccoli kugels. My husband was happy to leave the Seder table to fry filets of trout in butter and finish them with more butter, lemon and macadamia nuts. For dessert I made a compote of rhubarb, strawberry and fresh ginger, which I served over Swiss-style vanilla yogurt, topped with honeyed almond slivers.
But this simple side dish really stole the show, something I hope can happen for you. While the cost of eggs has skyrocketed in recent months, the price of radishes remains very low. Like under $2 for a bunch or a bag.
If you can, please use butter for the sautee; I much prefer it to olive oil. Have the butter bubble and sizzle in your pan before adding the radishes. And make sure they get really golden, with brown spots, if you can. Finish with piles of chopped tarragon and mint to really push a nice dish into something really elegant.
Ingredients:
One bunch of radishes, cleaned and quartered
Two tablespoons butter
Kosher salt, to taste
2 Tablespoons each tarragon and mint, chopped
Directions:
Heat a pan (I like using a skillet) and melt the butter until it’s frothy. Add the radishes and a pinch of salt and saute. Move the radishes around the skillet and watch as they become golden. They may brown in some places; this is a good thing.
Once the radishes are fully softened and browned in spots — this should take a good 15 minutes — sprinkle the fresh herbs on top. Serve immediately.
Molly Parr lives in Florence with her husband and two young daughters. She’s been writing her food blog, Cheap Beets, since 2010. Send questions or comments to [email protected].
Daily Hampshire Gazette
