History of Tabis: How a Japanese Classic Became a Fashion Staple

There are some shoes that are so iconic and instantly recognizable they need no introduction: the Christian Louboutin So Kate pump, a favorite of Zendaya with its sky-high heels and red bottoms; the Valentino Rockstud; Nike Dunks or Adidas Samba; Birkenstock Arizona sandals; the UGG boot; and, of course, the Maison Margiela Tabi.

The Tabi is also one of the most controversial shoes on this list of beloved footwear, as its split-toe design is a true “love it or hate it” kind of thing. Some people are devoted Tabi wearers, with their love spanning from boots to ballet flats, pumps, and loafers, while others couldn’t imagine putting their foot in such a unique design, comparing them to hooves. Cardi B is a fan, as is Dua Lipa, and Jacob Elordi, Zendaya, and Keke Palmer have been spotted in them too. Although Margiela’s shoe is definitely the best-known interpretation, “Tabi” is actually an umbrella term for all split-toe shoe designs, and many other brands have their own versions.

Regardless of your feelings about Tabi shoes, there’s no denying that they’re one of the most iconic silhouettes of all time. But where did Tabis come from, and how did they become one of the biggest “IYKYK” footwear trends of all time? Below, we break it all down.

To understand the origin of the Tabi trend, we have to travel way, way back in time to 15th-century Japan, where split-toe socks called tabis were worn with shoes like zori and geta, or thong sandals.

The divided toe shape was thought to promote balance for the wearer, and was made from a variety of fabrics, including cotton, once it became more widely available due to trade with China. Dark blue tabi socks were commonly worn, while white socks were reserved for more formal situations.

Tabi socks are still worn and widely available in Japan today, but they have evolved into a more shoe-like design called the jika-tabi, which features a rubber sole for outdoor wear. The jika-tabi was created in 1922 by two brothers, Tokujiro and Shojiro Ishibashi, with the latter going on to found the Bridgestone tire company. The rubber tread allows for more traction, and thus the jika-tabi boot could be worn for construction or even in war.

They were so versatile that, in 1951, runner Shigeki Tanaka won the Boston Marathon wearing a pair of tabi-style sneakers made of denim. In 1953, the athletic shoe company Onitsuka launched the Marathon Tabi, a split-toe sneaker that was “equipped with features required for marathon running, including rubber soles and uppers that feature durable material and a hanging band,” according to the brand’s website.

The Margiela Tabi was born in 1988, when Maison Margiela launched the boots during a runway show. The shoes made an appearance a few times throughout the show, including at the finale. “At that first show in Paris, models left red-painted Tabi footprints down the runway, staining the floor like abstract calligraphy,” fashion stylist Julie Matos tells Teen Vogue. “Fashion insiders were stunned. Editors were unsure what to think. But for those paying attention? It was a moment. The Tabi became a whispered icon, strange, subversive, and unforgettable.” Since then, the Belgian fashion house has made Tabis a signature part of their brand.

"I wanted to create an ‘invisible’ shoe, the illusion of a bare foot walking on a high, chunky heel," retailer Geert Bruloot, who was the first to stock the Tabi boot, recalls Martin Margiela saying, as noted by AnOther Magazine. "In the beginning, there was no budget for a new form, so I had no other choice than to continue with [the Tabi style] if I wanted shoes. But after several collections, people started asking for them. And they wanted more… and they didn’t stop asking, thank God!" Margiela continued showing the Tabis in collections because he could “not afford” to produce new shoes. "I put wall paint over my first collection to give it the same new feel as we did with everything else in our showroom."

Shortly thereafter, the Tabi shoe became a fashion person's mainstay. “When I moved to Los Angeles in the early '90s and started styling music videos, I saw a few cool girls at a showroom wearing the Margiela Tabis here and there,” costume designer Alison Freer tells Teen Vogue. They were embraced by tastemakers like Chloë Sevigny, but were definitely less popular than other shoes of the decade, like Manolo Blahniks and Dr. Martens.

In 1996, Nike launched its own split-toe design, the Air Rift, which resembles the Tabi design but was actually inspired by long-distance, barefoot runners in Kenya. The shape helps “create articulation between a runner’s first and second toes” for a more natural motion while running.

Margiela Tabis had a viral moment in 2023 when a woman posted a TikTok video claiming her date stole her Tabi shoes and gave them to his girlfriend. She ended up getting her shoes back, and the conversation catapulted Tabis into a bigger cultural moment outside of their fashion-insider circle.

While split-toe design shoes are not exclusive to Maison Margiela, nor did they originate them, the brand is the most closely associated with the style in the pop culture realm, and more than 30 years after they first walked the runway, Tabis have become a fashion icon all their own, with a seriously devoted following of celebs and fashion lovers.

“Tabis are a fashion litmus test. They’re part high art, part hoof,” says Matos. “Devotees love them for their boldness, their legacy, and the niche authority they instantly bestow. They’re endlessly bootlegged, frequently auctioned, and sometimes bought sight-unseen using Google Translate. That’s obsession.”

Wearing Tabis “says you’re in on the story. You’re not here for safe,” shares Matos. “You appreciate the way fashion holds memory, culture, and contradiction all in one step. Wearing Tabis isn’t just about the look; it’s about signaling that you have the range. It’s giving conceptual cool, curated irreverence, and just the right amount of ‘Don’t ask me if I’m serious.’”

But they are polarizing. “I didn’t realize until I finally owned a pair of Tabis how unsettling it is to some folks to see someone wearing a cloven hoofed shoe,” says Freer. “There is also a large majority of the population that cannot stand the feeling of something between their toes.” Freer likes wearing Tabis because they're “a bit ugly,” but also because the shape “gives you a bit more space in the toe box, which is the best thing you can do for your feet!”

The beauty of Tabis is that you can choose a style that speaks to you: ballet flats, ankle boots, stiletto heels, Mary-Janes, loafers, derbys, you name it. They can be worn casually with jeans or dressed up with a suit or red carpet gown.

Matos says she'd let the striking shoe lead the way when styling, pairing them with a structured silhouette of cropped, tailored pants, a sculptural top, and a chic blazer or contrasting the Tabi with a sheer, romantic dress. “Tabis don’t need help to stand out. They just need space.”

There's really nothing you can't wear with a pair of Tabis. Freer says she wears her personal Tabis just like she did back in the mid-'90s: with rolled-up jeans, Gunne Sax prairie dresses, and vintage '50s prom gowns. “They work anytime you want to add a little avant-garde edge to a look.”

If you prefer the designer version, the new Margiela Tabis range in price from $995 for a simple ballerina mule style to over $2,000 for a high boot. (They can also be found secondhand if you're willing to wait, search, and hunt!) But because Tabis are a shoe style and not a trademarked Margiela product, you can purchase split-toe designs from other retailers too, including shoemakers on Etsy — typically at a much lower price.

Shop some of our favorite Tabi shoes and socks below: