Khaite Shows How Subtle Can Still Be a Statement
Sometimes, fashion takes an idea so wonderfully disturbing and executes it so successfully that you walk away viewing taste in an entirely different light. At least, that’s what happened when a pair of heeled boat shoes walked a fog-filled Khaite runway, cutting across shallow pools of water inside Hudson Yards on Saturday night. The eerie mist certainly made you look twice at the subversively adorned feet, yet you couldn’t help but feel convinced that the accessory was about to be all the rage.
The same philosophy can be applied to much of Khaite—the brand founded by Catherine Holstein in 2016. For nearly a decade, the CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year nominee has taken the intellectually sleek wardrobe that defines many minimalist New Yorkers and given it an idiosyncratic twist—with great success.
If you’re on Fashion TikTok, it’s difficult to scroll without seeing rave reviews of the popular Danielle jeans or the oft-lusted-after studded Elena bag, the latter of which was represented in the spring collection by more sculptural options. Yesterday evening’s spring/summer 2026 show, which bucked the shortened trend cycle and featured an all-star cast including Kendall Jenner on the runway and Louisa Jacobson in the front row, was further proof of Holstein’s cult-level success.
Louisa Jacobson outside the Khaite show.
Through logomania, quiet luxury, and this year’s experimentation with polished rock, Khaite has undergone a wildly dramatic shift in the industry—from overarching design trends to how people access and talk about fashion. However, Holstein has remained steadfast in her brand’s DNA. Take the polka dots on the runway—a sure trend over the last six months that fashion fans might tire of before the fall season. For Holstein, the pattern, which graced pleat-waisted skirts, felt like an on-the-nose continuation of what the best-dressed New Yorker is already wearing (and most importantly, going to continue wearing—the best designs aren’t as fickle as internet trends). Not to mention when you pair it with a ribbon-laden top that adds a delicious twist to a classic silhouette.
Though impeccably precise, Holstein still differentiated herself from many of the other collections shown so far during the week. Heavier cream knit sets still felt fitting for spring but contrasted with the intense lightness that has dominated other designers’ collections. Meanwhile, a cropped jacket—more bolero than its original trench silhouette—dared to appeal to Y2K fanatics, albeit a few years late.
The reality is that much of Khaite’s appeal lies in Holstein’s ability to create the exact item you want but don’t yet have—something irreplaceable by any similar substitute once you’ve seen it. That’s why the brand remains a universally appealing language to those who know it.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
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